For a place so food-mad as the Bay Area, it’s ridiculously hard to get a decent bagel. Especially considering how many people have tried to fill this gaping hole—sorry!—in the culinary landscape, and then vanished. (Yes, we’re thinking wistfully of Schmendricks, which won our hearts with its popups and then broke them.) However, the guys who brought the beyond-authentic deli Wise Sons to the Mission hipsters on 24th Street have finally given in to popular demand, and opened a bagel bakery on Fillmore Street. How authentic? You cannot get a raisin bagel or an onion bagel or a garlic bagel—your only choices are plain, poppy, sesame, salt, and “everything.” (Which, strangely, does include onion and garlic, and caraway too.) As for such West Coast favorites as blueberry? Sun-dried tomato? Asiago? Cheddar-jalapeño? Bite your tongue. But not before ordering a toasted sesame bagel, properly boiled before baking, with a smoked-salmon shmear.
Photos by Molly DeCoudreaux